The House's tenth anniversary. Vera Kholodnaya, the sculptures of Chiparus, the graphics of Erté. A record number of crafts brought together for the first time.
The Spring 2021 couture collection marked Maison Ulyana Sergeenko's tenth anniversary. Its inspiration was Vera Kholodnaya, the silent-film star whose iconic beauty and expressive gaze became a symbol of the decadent 1910s. The collection's heroine embodied the bohemian, romantic woman — strong and elegant.
Despite the reference to Vera Kholodnaya, the decadence of the early century registers only in the collection's overall mood; aesthetically, it draws on the Art Deco style popular through the 1920s and '30s. Its sources included the sculptures of Demetre Chiparus, the graphic art of Erté, and the architecture and interior forms of the period.
As ever, particular attention was paid to handcraft. This season the House united a record number of traditional crafts for the first time: the collection featured crystal details from Gus-Khrustalny, enamels from Rostov, lace from Yelets and Kadom, and Krestets whitework embroidery, with looks completed by handmade wooden clutches.
The House's signature device of mixing textures also shaped the collection: severe, broad-shouldered suits sat alongside soft cardigans, chiffon dresses and silk-and-velvet eveningwear. Among the collection's floral motifs, a new symbol joined the House's traditional rose: the sunflower. Particular mention goes to a red dress, entirely hand-knitted — 500 hours of work and 3.5 kilograms of beads, hand-strung onto thread.
Notable details
- 01The red dress — 500 hours of handwork, 3.5 kg of beads hand-strung onto thread
