Atelier
Masters of the House in Moscow
Seamstresses, embroiderers, pattern cutters, toiles makers — a collective, many of whom preserve traditional techniques passed hand to hand across generations.
Among Maison Ulyana Sergeenko's greatest riches is its own atelier — a collective of master artisans who hand-craft each couture piece.
The Moscow atelier employs seamstresses, embroiderers, pattern cutters and other specialists. Many of them are keepers of traditional techniques.
The atelier works with numerous craft workshops and historic trades — the first were the Vologda lacemakers, later joined by masters of Yelets lace, Krestets whitework, Rostov enamel, Kadom veniz lace, and, since January 2021, the celebrated Gus-Khrustalny crystal works.
Today, choosing which craft to draw on is one of the very first steps in developing each new season.
How a season is born
- 01Theme
The most complex and lengthy stage. Immediately after the previous season's show, Ulyana and the design team begin intensively developing new ideas. The theme may change several times before the one that inspires the whole team is found.
- 02Moodboard
Once the theme is fixed, visualisation begins. After each designer's individual research, a shared moodboard is assembled and presented to Ulyana. This stage can involve endless rounds of revision.
- 03Crafts
Already at moodboard stage, the team decides which craft or crafts will feature in the collection — one of the earliest steps in development.
- 04Sketches
Designers produce a large number of sketches. The strongest are chosen for the first review. Based on Ulyana's notes, sketches are refined and new ones created.
- 05Toiles and samples
Approved looks are assigned to pattern makers. In parallel, embroidery, lace and other decorative samples are commissioned from craft partners. Every element — down to the smallest scrap of lace — is personally approved by Ulyana.
- 06Fittings
Technical fittings on models follow, during which toiles may be corrected repeatedly. A final fitting with Ulyana confirms the season's finished look.
- 07Handwork
Every piece is sewn by hand and embroidered with beads, sequins and embellishment — tens, sometimes hundreds, of hours of labour.
In the artisans’ hands
