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Collection

Haute Couture

Fall–Winter 2020

Nostalgia and golden-age Hollywood. Natalia Vodianova chose a dress from this collection for her wedding to Antoine Arnault.

The Winter 2020 couture collection carried a telling title — “Mothers” — devoted to enduring values and a timeless aesthetic. Its broad-shouldered silhouettes gesture, on one hand, toward the fashions of the 1930s and '40s and the divas of golden-age Hollywood — Joan Crawford, Rita Hayworth, or Ulyana Sergeenko's favourite actress, Ava Gardner — and, on the other, toward a tender, nostalgic image of motherhood, in which strong shoulders and handmade lace recall the looks worn by Ulyana's own mother, Natalia, in the 1980s.

The collection's stylistic singularity lies in its harmonious blend of warm, nostalgically tinted vintage sensibility and classic Hollywood glamour. The distinctive character of its silhouettes was matched by the exceptional quality of its handwork: a strict monochrome palette of black and white provided the perfect backdrop for the most intricate textures and traditional techniques.

A key emphasis fell on integrating age-old Russian crafts. The collection features Krestets whitework extensively — a distinctive openwork embroidery on linen, its geometric patterns developed in-house by the House's own designers — complemented by the celebrated hand-worked Vologda lace, as well as a tatting technique mastered by the atelier's artisans.

Natalia Vodianova chose a dress from this collection for her wedding to Antoine Arnault.

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