Paris debut. A children’s game of war as metaphor — tin soldiers, toy generals, and, in the finale, a widow played by Natalia Vodianova.
For the Fall–Winter 2012–2013 collection, Ulyana Sergeenko conjures a child's playroom suddenly overtaken by fashion's chaos. Playful, doll-like motifs collide with the solemn rigor of military uniform in a lavish game of dress-up.
The idea was inspired by an imagined scene from an old cartoon, where toys left alone stage a playful game of war. In this tender, feminine collection, damask brocade meets neoprene, lace meets wood, felt meets veiling. Military motifs surface in floor-length capes, bomber jackets and fur-trimmed parkas, paired with long, elegant skirts or boyish jockey breeches. Lace helmets and tulle bows lend an eccentric note to considered silhouettes.
Traditional Russian techniques, already a signature of Ulyana Sergeenko, run through this collection: hand-carved wooden heels and bag frames, embroidered headbands and epaulettes, lace-trimmed flasks and shako hats. Every detail is handmade, down to buttons of bead-embroidered velvet.
The palette unites military reference, fantasy and femininity: camouflage green, grey and khaki sit alongside vivid red, scarlet and Prussian blue, softened by delicate beige, pink and light-brown tones. Enamel hairpins and pendants set with semi-precious stones lend each look a final, graceful touch.
This collection marks Ulyana Sergeenko's debut on the Paris runway, embodying the spirit of a Russian designer and a devotion to exquisite fabrics and handcraft.
