Russian Gothic: national folklore, early-twentieth-century decadence, the films of Tarkovsky. Slate grey, black, deep crimson.
In this collection Ulyana Sergeenko cast her House's Russian code in a distinctly noir key. The concept of “Russian Gothic” drew on the melancholic aesthetics of national folklore, the aesthete decadence of the early twentieth century, and the mysterious atmosphere of Andrei Tarkovsky's films.
The collection was dominated by the House's signature cinched “wasp waist” silhouettes and long, flowing gowns, reinterpreted here in a more austere, elongated Gothic key. A dark palette — slate grey, black, deep crimson — and sumptuously tactile materials — heavy velvet, fine lace, fur — conjured an image of dramatic, decadent elegance on the edge.
The collection cemented Ulyana Sergeenko's reputation as one of the most striking newcomers to Haute Couture, a designer whose singular approach warranted close attention. Critics read the show not as another theatrical experiment, but as a foundational statement of the brand's DNA and aesthetic principles.
